Original Author｜Ivy。Editor & Images｜ensage

Do you truly know Taiwan? Do you still have the passion for adventure and exploration? Taiwan is not just an island surrounded by the sea; it also boasts 268 mountains that soar over 3,000 meters high. The island’s rich indigenous cultures, history of colonization by various countries, and modern development have all contributed to its deep cultural heritage. While it may not have the vast geographical expanse of continental countries, its unique blend of a staggering amount of roads leading around and over the mountains and coastal highways skirting the seas, makes Taiwan one of nature’s greatest gifts to cyclists.

Through the unique experience of cycling around the island, people can fully immerse themselves in Taiwan’s nature and culture, from the mountains to the coast. This journey allows them to test their own limits while showcasing to the world the Taiwanese passion for life and reverence for nature.

In the late autumn of 2023, a group of elites from various fields in Taiwan decided to take on the Cycling Around Taiwan challenge.

On November 25, 2023, the first edition of “National EMBA Cycling Showdown” Cycling Around Taiwan event, organized by the National Central University EMBA Alumni Association, brought together alumni from 13 universities across Taiwan, with around 200 EMBA participants. They embarked on a uniquely planned journey, tackling a route that spanned 960 kilometers and ascended 8,360 meters.

This article is a testament written by one of the participants, Ivy. Let’s experience this nine-day journey through her eyes, discovering Taiwan, connecting with companions, and ultimately getting to really know herself.

Preface: A Childlike Heart

I love cycling, because it brings me back my childlike heart! During these nine relatively short days, riding over a hundred kilometers each day, crossing mountains, battling headwinds, enduring scorching heat from the sun, rain, cold winds, and the noisy traffic, I witnessed and experienced my own  resilience, alongside  my fellow riders. We truly embodied the EMBA spirit of “unyielding determination.” There were stories of laughter and tears, with every challenging kilometer ridden, our growth and personal breakthroughs kept adding up. For a group of non-professional cyclists, this was truly a milestone challenge worthy of life’s annals. Therefore, I want to capture this nine-day story through inspiring words and candid photos. This adventure will forever be etched in my heart.

Day 1: A Coincidental Mother-Son Connection

Route Guide: National Central University (Zhongli) – West Coast Highway 61 – Zhunan – Yuanli – Lihpao Resort (Houli)
Distance and Elevation Gain: 121 kilometers, 892 meters of climbing

After departing from National Central University, we headed south along the West Coast Highway and arrived at Yuanli, the hometown of our friend, ‘Elephant’. With great enthusiasm, he led us Tsinghua University members to his old home to enjoy some homemade honey water. As the sunset bathed the fields in a golden hue, we witnessed ‘Elephant’s’ mother strolling along the country path, as if she knew her son was coming home and came out to greet him. This added a heartwarming touch to the end of our first day of riding.

On this first day, I must also express my gratitude to the soul of Tsinghua University’s cycling club, “Sister Pan,” who participated in this Cycling Around Taiwan trip, and to Jimmy for the surprise birthday cake he had prepared in advance. It was such a lovely surprise. My birthday wish that day was simple: “Someone who values me, cherishes me, and treats me well—that’s my greatest satisfaction!”  

And thanks to the EMBA Cycling Around Taiwan event’s leader, Ti-jie, and all the fearless participants! Celebrating my birthday with all of you was truly wonderful! Happy Birthday to me on November 25, 2023.
PS. “The cake from Fullon Hotel was really delicious.”

Day 2: What? Adding Sun Moon Lake into Cycling Around Taiwan!

Route Guide: Lihpao Land (Houli) – Dongshi – Highway 21 – Baimo Mountain – Dapingding – Puli – Sun Moon Lake
Distance and Elevation Gain: 100 kilometers, 1,960 meters of climbing

Climbing nearly two thousand meters elevation on the second day? Is it a joke? Typically, island-circling routes in western Taiwan favor the coastal Highway 61 or the city-traversing Highway 1. These routes are relatively flat, with constant sea views and urban scenery.

However, we opted for the more challenging Highway 21. This route requires crossing Baimo Mountain and Dapingding peak, and climbing up to Sun Moon Lake. Though it’s a significant physical challenge, it offers a genuine experience of the beautiful mountain roads and local features of central Taiwan.

Day 3: Chiayi – A Place Full of Warmth

Route Guide: Sun Moon Lake – Jiji – Mingjian – Douliu – Chiayi
Distance and Elevation Gain: 100 kilometers, 549 meters of climbing

On the third day, waking up by the stunning scenery of Sun Moon Lake, my heart rippled like the water’s surface at dawn as a single pebble had been cast onto its glass like surface. I wanted to stay and enjoy the serenity, but we couldn’t—the goal of our journey was calling. This beautiful view was just the prelude, one of many to come; we had to keep moving forward.

Today’s destination was Chiayi. We would traverse the green tunnels of Jiji and Mingjian, with sunlight filtering through the leaves to create a dappled pattern on the ground. Riding under this green canopy was a welcome relief from the previous day’s tough route.

Upon arriving in Chiayi, we were greeted by Executive Director Mr. Lin, whose robust health and vitality were incredibly inspiring. Not only did he come to visit us in person, but he also brought local specialties as gifts. The high-standard of moral support and the comfortable accommodations at the Royal Chiayi Hotel, arranged by Senior Wailun, provided us with ample rest and recovery. This gave us a confidence boost that we needed for the next six days!

Day 4: Tainan – A Familiar City Filled with My Gratitude

Route Guide: Chiayi – Highway 1 – Yanshui – Highway 17 – Tainan – Kaohsiung
Distance and Elevation Gain: 128 kilometers, 470 meters of climbing

The fourth day’s destination was Kaohsiung, but what I looked forward to the most was Tainan. Tainan, for me, is filled with familiarity and warmth. The canal connecting the city and Anping Harbor, and the shrimp cracker ice cream, carry endless filial piety and life philosophy.

In the past, I encountered many people and events here that were worth learning from. Sister Su-Mei from Cheng Kung University supported me all the way, offering endless encouragement and support in life. Zongzi, with his care for the Tsinghua participants and endless laughter, even introduced me to a brother named “Jimmy” (who I mentioned previously).  Then there’s Bubble and Small, who became my best, close friends. I am grateful for these encounters in Tainan.

However, the evening in Kaohsiung was less smooth. I started experiencing stomach pain and chills, my voice became hoarse, and my phone’s SIM card got locked. These small setbacks were disheartening, but thinking about the ongoing Cycling Around Taiwan journey helped me regain my composure and gradually drift off to sleep with a peaceful mind.

Day 5: Heading Toward the Sea

Route Guide: Kaohsiung – Highway 1 – Fangshan – Fenggang – Checheng
Distance and Elevation Gain: 87 kilometers, 444 meters of climbing

On the fifth day of our Cycling Around Taiwan journey, we rode toward my beloved sea.

Starting from Kaohsiung in the early morning, we followed the light rail route. Suddenly, we heard the sound of someone falling behind us—it was Jimmy! Fortunately, he only suffered minor knee scrapes. After a check-up at the orthopedics and applying some medicine, he continued with us. It’s amazing that he joined this island-circling trip with just five months of cycling experience, demonstrating incredible perseverance and spirit!

The day’s endpoint was the Long Beach Resort Hotel in Checheng. We arrived at sunset, greeted by beautiful coastal views. Along the way, Zongzi’s generosity in handing out tips and ordering Taiwanese fried chicken for everyone to enjoy as a snack made Checheng even more charming and endearing.

A special thanks to Executive Director Mr. Lin from Tsinghua University for his great support to our cycling event. He led the alumni to join us in Checheng and accompany us for the next two days. This support and companionship felt like a warm visit from family.

Day 6: Revisiting Shouka, Breaking through Headwinds

Route Guide: Checheng – Mudan – Shouka – Jinlun – Zhiben
Distance and Elevation Gain: 105 kilometers, 1,544 meters of climbing

Today was another day of over 100 kilometers and a climb exceeding 1,500 meters. Shouka, an unavoidable summit on the Cycling Around Taiwan route, awaited us. When you make it to this place, you’ll understand why I use the word ” unavoidable”.

Unlike the usual southern route, we stayed in Checheng the previous night and took County Route 119 through Mudan Reservoir. We passed through several indigenous villages, gathering more memories along the way. As we descended from Shouka, the breathtaking view of the blue sea on Taiwan’s east coast came into sight.

After lunch, the strong headwinds, typical of late autumn on Highway 9 began to blow, and we still had half the journey ahead. This was the perfect moment to demonstrate our team spirit and cooperation.

Thanks to the Tsinghua warriors and the female seniors with their electric-assisted bikes, who took on the role of windbreakers, leading us to overcome the headwinds together and get through the tough times. After enduring the ups and downs of the coastal Highway 9 in front of Jinlun Station, our dusty group finally arrived at Zhiben. The first thing we did upon arrival was to soak in the hot springs, and we made sure to take multiple dips to wash away the exhaustion.

In the evening, we accepted an invitation from National Sun Yat-sen University to join a private karaoke and dance party. We sang and danced until we were exhausted, drank until some of us had to flee, and received an exciting, yet daunting invitation to the 2024 Gobi UltraMarathon, all of this was part of the irresistible charm and enthusiasm of southern Taiwan.

Day 7: What? Adding Yuchang Highway into Cycling Around Taiwan!

Route Guide: Zhiben – Taitung – Highway 11 – Yuchang Highway – County Road 193 – Ruisui
Distance and Elevation Gain: 131 kilometers, 1,250 meters of climbing

This day was undoubtedly the toughest battle! Have you ever considered that Cycling Around Taiwan might involve climbing the Yuchang Highway, crossing from the sea to the mountains, and then riding north on County Road 193 to Ruisui? That’s exactly what the seventh-day route entailed!

No matter how exhausted we were from the previous night’s activities, we were up at 6 AM sharp for the morning roll call. Reluctantly, we got on our bikes and set off with the mindset of enjoying the ride as we went. Heading north through Taitung City, we tackled a short slope leading to the attraction known as “Water Flows Upward.”, and reached Donghe Township. We walked our bikes across the old Donghe Bridge, enjoying the beautiful scenery and the cliffs teeming with monkeys just a stone’s throw away. We even shared our Donghe meat buns with the monkeys who tried to steal them.

After bidding farewell to Donghe and the monkeys, we faced the grueling 7-kilometer climb of the Yuchang Highway. Unfortunately, due to stomach pain, I had to stop and take the tour bus to explore the scenic County Road 193 instead. The relaxing atmosphere of the bus ride felt like a company outing, allowing me to temporarily forget my exhaustion.

That evening, at the hotel banquet, I received many compliments from my fellow riders for the “Landlady,” “Little Pegasus,” and fluffy hat accessories I had found at the Christmas market. That night, we were the stars of the Ruisui Tianhe Hotel. Letting go of our usual selves, we entertained each other and shared endless laughter. Thanks to Jimmy for giving me the courage, and the bonds we had formed over the past seven days of riding grew even stronger through this joyous experience.

Day 8: The Most Unforgettable Moments

Route Guide: Ruisui – Highway 9 – Hualien – Taiwan Railways – Fulong
Distance and Elevation Gain: 71 kilometers, 259 meters of climbing

This day was the most leisurely and perfect for taking Instagram-worthy photos out of the entire nine-day island-circling journey.

Starting from Ruisui, we traveled along Highway 9 to Hualien, then took the Taiwan Railways to Fulong. The most unforgettable part was the beautiful Danongdafu Forest Park on the East Rift Valley Plain. Led by the young Tsinghua warrior Chris, we took stunning photos at Qixingtan Beach.

The train ride to Fulong was filled with the sounds of laughter echoing through the carriages. Jimmy’s hilarious antics in creating a VIP scenic seat had everyone in stitches. It reminded me of the time we had a barbecue in Neiwan when we were 17, filled with youthful energy and joy.

The evening’s banquet at the Fullon Hotel was deeply moving. Friends who had bonded over cycling gathered together, and a video made by alumni from Yuan Ze University was shown on the screen. The footage captured our journey over the past few days, with every pedal stroke and moment of progress. Each person’s face was radiant with joy and vitality.

Who says cycling is exhausting? Watching these scenes, we realized more profoundly that this journey was not just a physical challenge but a spiritual adventure. Every moment of effort and perseverance became a cherished memory, and this journey will forever be etched in our hearts.

Day 9: The Final Chapter

Route Guide: Fulong – Highway 106 – Shiding – Shenkeng – Yingge – National Central University
Distance and Elevation Gain: 112 kilometers, 1,174 meters of climbing

We woke up to cold winds and rain, but we all had the same thought in our minds: “We must seize the last day of this journey!” After all, riding in the cold and rain during the northeastern monsoon season is an expected challenge in northern Taiwan. Fortunately, we only had to endure rain for half the day.

What touched us deeply was that an old friend and senior who had previously Cycled Around Taiwan with us chose to join us on this coldest day. This camaraderie added warmth to our spirits. After leaving Highway 106 and returning to Taipei, we rode along the right bank of the Dahan River cycling path. Despite having lived in this city for some time, I had never cycled along the riverside. As we rode south, the cool breeze and the sight of towering skyscrapers made us appreciate Taiwan’s beautiful landscapes and thoughtful urban planning even more.

The journey may have been tough, but the memories and friendships we forged will remain with us forever.

Returning to our starting point at National Central University, we completed a unique nine-day journey covering 960 kilometers and climbing a whopping  8,326 meters. This was no ordinary island-circling experience. We crossed mountains and  traced coastlines, savored diverse cuisines, and encountered people from all walks of life. We witnessed the resilience and bravery of our fellow EMBA alumni, and we felt the warmth and support from friends and everyone else in Taiwan.

There are countless stories to tell from this journey. As someone once said, “Cycling is a conversation with oneself; only you understand your own emotions.” I love cycling because it brings back my childlike heart!

Source：Ivy’s Facebook post
Read More：Cycling Voyager : Dive into Taiwan’s Penghu Islands

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